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An Expert Colorist

Colourist operating from the Golden State who focuses on platinum tones. Among his clientele are celebrated actors and Andie MacDowell.

What affordable item can't you live without?

I highly recommend a soft fabric towel, or even a gentle tee to remove moisture from your strands. Many are unaware how much stress a standard towel can do, notably with silver or chemically treated hair. This minor adjustment can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another affordable staple is a large-gap comb, to use while conditioning. It safeguards your strands while removing knots and helps preserve the strength of the hair shafts, particularly post-bleaching.

What item or service justifies the extra cost?

A top-tier thermal appliance – ceramic or tourmaline, with precise heat settings. Silver and light-coloured hair can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the right iron.

What style or process should you always avoid?

At-home lightening. Internet videos often simplify it, but the reality is it’s one of the most hazardous actions you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals severely damage their locks, snap their strands or end up with uneven tones that are nearly impossible to correct. It's best to steer clear of chemical straightening processes on color-treated or grey hair. These chemical systems are often excessively strong for delicate locks and can cause long-term damage or discoloration.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their hair type or colour. Certain clients overapply violet-based cleansers until their lightened locks looks flat and dull. Others rely too much on high-protein masks and end up with rigid, fragile strands. Another significant problem is thermal styling minus a barrier. If you’re using flat irons, curling irons or blow dryers without a protective product, – notably with color-treated strands – you’re going to see yellowing, dryness and breakage.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. For direct application, minoxidil is highly proven. My advice includes scalp formulas with active ingredients to boost blood flow and support follicle health. Using a scalp detox shampoo weekly helps eliminate impurities and allows products to perform better. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown notable improvements. They support the body from the inside out by correcting endocrine issues, tension and lack of vital nutrients.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, PRP therapy – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be beneficial. Still, my advice is to seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Thinning can be linked to medical conditions, and it’s important to identify the source rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

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A Hair and Scalp Specialist

Trichologist and brand president of Philip Kingsley clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

My trims are every couple of months, but will snip damaged ends myself fortnightly to preserve strand health, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

Toppik hair fibres are remarkably effective if you have see-through sections. These particles bond to your existing hair, and it comes in a variety of shades, making it seamlessly blended. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had significant shedding – and also currently as I’m going through some significant shedding after having awful flu a few months ago. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the initial area to show decline when your intake is insufficient, so I would also recommend a well-rounded, nutrient-rich diet.

What justifies a higher investment?

If you have female pattern hair loss (FPHL), I’d say medicated treatments. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need clinical interventions to see the most effective improvements. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Rosemary extracts for shedding. It shows no real benefit. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they are equally minimal in effect.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can affect thyroid test results.

Which error is most frequent?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the primary purpose of washing is to rid your scalp of old oils, dead skin cells, sweat and environmental pollution. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s damaging to their locks, when in fact the contrary is accurate – especially if you have dandruff, which is aggravated by oil buildup. When sebum remains on the skin, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a careful compromise. But as long as you are gentle when you shampoo and handle wet hair with care, it won’t be damaging to your strands.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. It's backed by strong research and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you choose to avoid it or cannot tolerate it, you could try collagen induction therapy (with a specialist), and perhaps injections or laser devices.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Noticeable thinning usually relates to a health trigger. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as sickness, virus or emotional strain – and it will clear up naturally. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus